Hammering the hills on a road bike, spending a lazy afternoon eating and drinking on a vine-strewn terrace, snorkelling in clear-watered coves, ambling around sunny streets full of shops, markets and galleries … If any – or all – of these sound like your kind of thing, Mallorca could be the spring/summer holiday island for you.
To start with, let’s hit the sand. The 340-mile coastline boasts more than 200 beaches. Those in the south, including Es Trenc and Cala Llombards, tend to be swathes of soft white lapped by turquoise sea; the north has sweeps of golden sand and shallow waters, such as Playa de Muro, spotlessly clean and ideal for families.
The most spectacular stretch of Mallorcan coast though, is the one with fewest beaches. On the far side of the Tramuntana mountain range, the wild and rocky west coast offers stunning drives along clifftops through some of the island’s prettiest villages and resorts – Valldemossa, Deià, Sóller and Fornalutx. All are worth a lunch stop at least, and zigzag roads lead down to secluded pebbly coves such as Cala Tuent. Next door is Sa Calobra, a stunning cove reached through a series of cave tunnels. Those who go early in the day are rewarded with a stunning swim, with only a few folks who’ve leapt in off their yachts for company.
The island is a fantastic option for cyclists, particularly in the cooler months when professionals come to train on steep hills in a mild climate, and enjoy some of the best road-riding in Europe. For walkers, footpaths weave between orange groves, hillside mansions, coves and peaks, so there’s never a dull stretch. Even in the height of summer, Mallorca’s rural centre remains quiet and is dotted with vineyards, tiny villages and farmhouses, or fincas, some converted into rustic retreats and excellent restaurants.
The capital, Palma, is no longer just a gateway for beach holidays, it’s a destination in its own right, with enough cultural, historic and gastronomic delights in its compact centre to keep you busy for a day or two.
There’s tons of loveliness on offer in Mallorca. But if you’re thinking about that fleshpot resort of ill repute, that starts with M and ends in F, don’t. It really is irrelevant to your holiday here.
What to do
Cycling in Peguera, in the south west of the island. Photograph: Alamy
Pick up your wheels in Palma and hit the flat, 10-mile cycle path to S’Arenal, passing the city’s magnificent Gothic cathedral, the cafe-lined seafront of Portixol (a good spot for refuelling) and the up-and-coming beach resort of Cuidad Jardín. At the end of the route is S’Arenal (high-rise hotels, tacky souvenir shops, package Mallorca at its worst), so turnaround and pedal back to the cultural capital.
Walk the Victoria peninsula
Escape the crowds of Alcúdia and Puerto de Pollensa by walking this well-signed seven-mile route along the southern arm of Pollensa bay. It’s signposted from Bar S’illot (see below), and takes you past the Ermita, an early 15th-century hermitage, and up to the 445-metre Talaia d’Alcúdia peak for panoramic views to Alcúdia bay in the south, and north across Pollensa bay to the Formentor peninsula. After a slightly tricky descent (not good for vertigo sufferers), wind your way back down through quiet countryside, where you’ll probably see more Balearic goats than fellow walkers. If you have time, take a detour to stunning Platja d’es Coll Baix beach.
Browse a weekly market
If you only do one of Mallorca’s wonderful weekly markets, make it Sineu (Wednesdays). You get all the usual leather, lace, fruit, olives and strings of chilli peppers, but it’s also the only market that still trades livestock. Get here early (8am) and you’ll see locals haggling over piglets, lambs, chickens and rabbits. Later on there are pony rides and street entertainment. For more modern shopping, Palma has plenty of chic shops: Rialto Living is a cool concept store with fashion and furniture, plus a cafe and gallery.
Don’t miss …
Climbing the 365 steps from Pollensa’s old town to the tiny 18th-century chapel, Oratori del Calvari, for stunning views. Some pilgrims do it on their knees!
Hidden gems…
Watching the sunset at Sa Foradada, a five-minute drive from Deia then a 45-minute hike down. In Palma, in September, 40 galleries host a La Nit de l’Art, a nocturnal art festival, which includes Joan Miró’s studio.
Where to eat
Simply Fosh, Palma
Photograph: Oliver Brenneisen/Simply Fosh
In a 17th-century building in the heart of the old town, Marc Fosh’s Mediterranean brasserie has a Michelin star. The three-course lunch menu, featuring the likes of yellow gazpacho with marinated salmon, and cuttlefish with seafood rice, is an affordable €23.50.
Carrer de la Missió, 7A, +34 971 720114, simplyfosh.com
La Bóveda, Palma
Palma is not short of good tapas restaurants, but this one stands out. It’s sister to the well-known Taberna de la Bóveda, just round the corner, and slightly easier to reserve a table. The menu is vast but the silver-haired waiters (always a sign of a good establishment) know what to recommend. Tuck into sumptuous garlic prawns, fish croquettes, stuffed peppers, dates wrapped in bacon, and pa amb oli (Mallorca’s answer to bruschetta) in a great atmosphere.
Carrer Botería 3, +34 971 714863, facebook.com/La-Boveda, tapas €8
Antic Celler Son Toreó, Sineu
The oldest restaurant in Sineu, in a building dating from the early 12th century, Son Toreó is worth the trip to the centre of the island. The family-run restaurant was closed 37 years ago due to laws prohibiting cooking with gas underground, but was reopened by the fourth generation of the Fuster family 10 years ago. It now cooks the Mallorcan meat specialities – steaks, chicken and rabbit – on a wood fire, giving them a lovely flavour. Portions are generous, but save room for the almond nougat mousse.
Plaça es fossar 3, +34 649 477955, facebook.com/Antic-Celler-Son-Toreó, mains around €12
Es Verger, Alaró
Photograph: Alamy
Locals were a bit peeved when Rick Stein came here and told the world he’d had the best lamb he’d ever tasted. Since then, many more people have braved the hairpin bends and dirt track to this rustic farm restaurant half-way up Alaró mountain, known to British expats as “the lamb restaurant”. It serves simple Mallorcan food, but you’re best off following Rick and going for the paletilla de cordero, shoulder of lamb slow-cooked in its no-longer-so-secret ingredient, San Miguel beer. Booking is essential.
Camí des Castell, +34 971 182126, mains from €8
Ca N’Antuna, Fornalutx
Reserve a table on the vine-covered terrace at this popular restaurant, with views across the village and the lush valley to the Tramuntana mountains. Of the handful of restaurants in Fornalutx, this one stands out for its filling Mallorcan dishes, including roast suckling pig and roast lamb. If you can’t get a table on the terrace, try Es Turo just up the road for a similar experience.
Calle Arbona Colom 14, +34 971 633068, mains around €15
Café C’an Moixet, Pollensa
Don’t be put off by the rather shabby exterior of this tapas bar in Pollensa’s main square. It may not look as appealing as the other restaurants in this prime people-watching spot, but the atmosphere is buzzy, the tapas excellent and prices low. It’s a popular spot for morning coffees and pastries, especially on Sunday (market day), and it does a mean mojito, too (€4.80).
Plaça Major 2, +34 971 534214, tapas around €6
You must try …
The delicious ensaïmada pastry, made from light-as-air sugar-dusted layers is particular to the island and once you’ve tasted one you’ll quite likely be trying them daily.
Where to drink
One glance from Palma Cathedral towards the Sky Bar at Hostal Cuba, a local favorite in Palma, captures the imagination and sets the stage for a dreamy Mallorcan experience.
Hostal Cuba, a top-notch bar and nightlife spot in Palma, welcomes guests with its newest feature - the Sky Bar. Perfectly situated with breathtaking views of the bay and old town, this spot is the quintessential choice for savoring an evening cocktail while watching the sun dip into the horizon. The colonial hotel, established in 1904 and a go-to locale for fishermen, recently spiced up as a four-star boutique hotel subsequent to an extensive refurbishment. A lively summer to look forward to as plenty DJs and regular live music gigs are on the calendar. To book your stay, call +34 971 452237, or visit their website at hotelhostalcuba.com.
Discovering S’illot de la Victória in Alcúdia
Away from the bustle of Alcúdia's lively beaches, a 20-minute drive takes you to the secluded beachside bar of S’illot de la Victória. This spot seems like a tranquil world on its own. The scenic vista of the sparkling turquoise sea viewed from the weathered wooden terrace is worth the journey alone. It is the perfect location for a relaxed drink or a delightful ice-cream after exploring the Victoria peninsula. For directions, take the coastal road to the north-east of Malpas Bonaire, you can reach them at +34 971 897218
Venturing to the Beach bar at Cala Torta
A hidden gem, tucked away in a cove to the north-east of Artà, the Beach bar at Cala Torta can be reached through a rugged pathway and stroll across the grassy dunes. Immerse yourself in the pure charm of this place, exemplified by the petite shack, with no phone or internet access. While it exudes simplicity, it comes with a premium, as prices are relatively high. The modest menu features local seafood like fish and calamares, exquisitely fresh and grilled to perfection, and complemented with a salad instead of fries.
Where to stay
When considering where to stay in Mallorca, one is spoilt for choice due to the island's diverse offerings. For those seeking the vibrant energy of the city, Palma de Mallorca boasts a range of stylish boutique hotels and luxury resorts, often with stunning views of the Mediterranean Sea. You can look at top hotels on tophotels.com to get an idea of what's on offer. Alternatively, the picturesque towns of Sóller and Valldemossa, nestled in the Tramuntana Mountains, provide a tranquil and scenic escape, ideal for nature lovers and those looking to explore the island's cultural heritage. If you prefer beachfront relaxation, the coastal towns of Alcudia, Cala d'Or, or Palma Nova offer a wide range of accommodations right by the sea. Wherever you choose to stay in Mallorca, you'll find a perfect balance of sun, sea, culture, and relaxation, making it an ideal destination for a memorable Mediterranean getaway. Don't miss your chance, you can conveniently book here >> to secure your accommodation option of choice.
Fantastic Villa Very Well, Palma
For a unique experience, consider booking a stay at the Fantastic Villa Very Well located in Palma de Mallorca. This accommodation option provides a comfortable home-away-from-home atmosphere, nestled amongst the bustling city life.
Cases de Son Barbassa, Capdepera
In a stunning hillside location, two miles from Cala Mesquida beach, this 16th-century finca-turned-boutique hotel is super stylish with stone walls, marble floors, candles and designer rustic touches in every corner. The infinity pool is surrounded by luxurious four-poster sunbeds and there’s an adults-only hot tub. It’s glamorous but unpretentious, although you’ll still want to dress up for dinner in the hotel’s elegant glass-walled restaurant, where the best tables are on the terrace. Considering the setting, meals are surprisingly inexpensive – €29.20 for a three- course dinner.
Doubles from €170 B&B, +34 971 565776, sonbarbassa.com
Dalt Murada, Palma
Just behind Palma’s cathedral, in a quiet lane in the old town but close to all the action, Dalt Murada is very handy for exploring the island’s capital. The elegant 16th-century courtyard house has been in the Moragues family for more than 250 years and is full of old paintings, antiques and other family treasures. Its five rooms and five suites have tiled floors, exposed beams, and chandeliers. There’s a bar, a pretty breakfast courtyard and a roof terrace for sunset drinks. Manager Ferrán knows the city inside and out.
Doubles from €103, breakfast €7.50, +34 971 425 300, daltmurada.com
Ca’n Reus, Fornalutx
With its terracotta roofs, shutters, cobbled streets and citrus groves, Fornalutx is one of the prettiest villages in Spain. The area is a favourite for walkers and many stay at Hotel C’an Reus, a typical Mallorcan townhouse a short stroll from the square, with a small pool and a terrace with mountain views. One of the nine bedrooms has a 100-year-old olive tree in the corner. No under-fives.
Doubles from €126 B&B, +34 971 639866, canreushotel.com
L’Hostal Pollensa, Pollensa
This fun hotel is the no-frills sister to the historic Juma. Both are in Pollensa’s pretty old town: Juma sits on the sunny Plaça Major and L’Hostal is just round the corner in a shady side street. Six spacious bedrooms have original artwork and brightly coloured cushions and rugs. Downstairs there’s a communal lounge area with patio doors leading to a small courtyard. A buffet breakfast is usually served here, but in the quieter months L’Hostal guests take breakfast at Juma.
Doubles from €63 B&B, +34 971 535282, i-escape.com/lhostal-pollensa
Sa Rota d’en Palerm, near Sineu
Experience the best of rural Mallorca at this 70-acre converted farmstead in the heart of the island. Surrounded by fig and almond trees, the main house has a double room and two apartments. On the other side of the large pool, six more apartments, set around a courtyard, have private terraces looking across the valley towards the Tramuntana mountains. Breakfasts include bread and fig jam made by the charming owners.
Doubles from €139, apartments for two from €142, breakfast €12.50, +34 654 131 331, sa-rota.com